The standard single axle 3.5k trailer weighs 1000lbs so can carry 2500lbs, the tandem 7k weighs around 1800 so can carry 5200lbs.
The standard single axle 6k trailer weighs 1500lbs so can carry 4500lbs, the tandem 12k weighs around 2400 so can carry 9600lbs.
The standard single axle 7k trailer weighs 1800 lbs so can carry 5200lbs, the tandem 14k weighs around 3000 so can carry 11000lbs.
Stock tires and wheels are silver mod 205D7515s. These are cheap bias tires. For $60 more per tire you can buy radials 205R7515s which are far better for longer distances and have more plies for sturdiness and longevity. For $80 more per tire/wheel you can buy 225R7515s which are a larger tire and have additional plies. 6k axles come stock with 225R7515 tires/wheels. 7k axles come stock with 235R8016 tires/wheels. All wheels are silver mod wheels, black mod wheels are $60 extra per tire/wheel.
No one likes to keep up with greasing their axles, but it’s pretty much the only maintenance thing on a trailer. If you don’t, you run the risk of losing a wheel and/or tearing up the spindles on the axle (which means you have to replace the axle). Bearings should be re-greased every year or 1-3k miles, but taking them apart is a pain and grease is well…greasy. EZ lube axles are the best option (comes standard with 7k axles) - but Dexter is inconsistent in their supply of these axles for 3.5k and 6k. The next best option is bearing buddies. They let you use a grease gun ($35 online or in store) to insert grease to the front bearing. The front bearing is the one most in need of grease from dirt that gets in from the dust cap. Bearing buddies replace this thin metal cap with a thick stainless steel cap. In addition, they prevent you from over-greasing the spindle by having a weep hole. To me, it’s a must have on any trailer without EZ lube. Bearing protectors are $40 a pair, and $80 for 6k axles. EZ lube axles are $120 each, when available.
(Note: bearing protectors are fairly necessary now since Dexter has had a recent problem with their dust caps falling off.)
A ‘tongue wrap’ increases the strength of the trailer as it ties the axle directly to the coupler hitch via the wrapped frame design. This means less swaying and bending in the frame of the trailer. It is absolutely necessary for any trailer above 16′ but great for 12′ and especially 14′ trailers. It comes standard with all tandem trailers.
Here are some pictures of the difference between wrapped ($140) and unwrapped tongues:
An adjustable coupler is helpful for adjusting the trailer up and down and not having to have multiple hitches or an expensive adjustable hitch. It is heavier duty than the standard a-frame Bulldog coupler. It also is the best way to keep your trailer from being stolen as you can simple remove it from the trailer. Similarly we can make chains removable as well. An adjustable coupler costs $120, and removable chains are $20.
Don’t want to carry around a jack with you every time you pull the trailer? That’s fine, just add a jack mount to the fenders and you can jack it up using your tongue jack (tandem trailers need front and back mounts). Fender jack mounts are $40/ pair.
Single axle trailers come with 16gauge smooth steel fenders for free. Options include jeep and heavier 14gauge fenders.
Tandem trailers come with 16gauge smooth steel fenders for free. Options include teardrop and heavier 14gauge fenders.
Sometimes you are pulling a car or ATV and need more room to load or more room to get a door open. Removable sides and/or fenders will help give you the extra space you need. Removable side/ fender is $200 and comes with a hinge and latches. Removable sides w/ ramps/gate is $300. Removable sides w/ bi-fold gate is $440. These options automatically include a tongue wrap, to make up for the trailer not having standard sides.
Hammerhead trailers allow for full width (98-102”) in front of the axle. The main purpose of this option is to accommodate vehicles in the front of the trailer that are longer than 7’. This option is usually combined with side loading and/ or drive over fenders. Because hammerheads utilize a dual frame design they are $480 extra, $600 for tandem. $720 w/ ramps. All include tongue wrap.
A full deck trailer uses up to the 9” width (fender width) in front and in the back of the fenders as a part of the deck. We double up the frame for extra support. This option is often combined with, but doesn’t necessarily require, drive-over fenders, which allow you to drive over the fenders on the trailer - integrating them with the width of the trailer. This allows you to have width up front and in the rear - up to 98-102” (full-width deck)
A tilt trailer is very convenient as you don’t need cumbersome ramps or a gate to drive up the trailer. However, almost all manufacturers making tilt trailers “cheat” on the axle placement by moving the axles forward, up to 2 feet (on tandems). The issue with that placement is that it makes the trailer sway and bounce due to tongue weight being lessened. Moving the axle forward has been a general rule of thumb for a while, but we don’t have to follow this ‘lazy’ conventional wisdom...unless of course you want us to (we offer traditional single tilts for $600 & tandem tilts for $1500). All of our TRU-TILT axles retain the same 60/40 axle placement that keeps the trailer from swaying. Simply search tilt trailers and you will see their axle placement is ‘centered’ while our axles remain rear-aligned. Another benefit of the way we make these 60/40 tilt trailers is the ramps are easily driven over. We are the only manufacturer, I’m aware of, making 60/40 tilt trailers - although I’m sure many salesmen would claim otherwise (ask us how to verify on your own). Sure it costs more, but it’s also a lot more work to make it perfect. All our TRU-TILT trailers have a 4’ fixed front section, and the rest of the trailer tilts. Single axle TRU-TILT trailers start at $900, tandems start at $2000. Note: this will not work for a low profile car without a hydraulic kit.
Drive-over fenders allow you to drive over the fenders on the trailer as well as integrate them with the width of the trailer so you CAN have more width up front, up to 98-102” (hammerhead design) and in the rear or just have more width to drive over and “cheat” side to side for wider vehicles – hammerhead options and wider trailers cost extra. Unfortunately, no manufacturers make these drive over fenders so they are all custom. These fenders allow the trailer to still sit low rather than going to a deckover trailer design where the axle is on top of the leaf springs rather than below them. We also offer a sort of half – drive over fender when you only need around a 90” hammerhead and not the full 98-102.
Bi-fold gates are a great way to get the benefit of a smaller gate without having a dovetail on your trailer. The entire gate length is 4′ but folds into two 2′ sections that can both be removed from the trailer.
Bi-fold gates cost $480. They come with a spring assist and a strut to hold the additional weight, although they are still significantly heavier than regular gates. It is recommended you go with heavier duty latches ($120) to handle the extra weight.
An alternative to wood and metal that beats both in many ways is plastic lumber. It’s made from 99% water and detergent bottles and has a lifetime warranty, which includes color fade. It is grippier than wood and metal and has the same thickness and sturdiness of wood. Price depends on trailer size and ranges from $420 - $840. Contact for a specific estimate.
If the trailer extensions aren’t your cup of tea, another options is the lay flat gate. The gate can be made to lay flat forward for hauling longer pieces of metal or wood on your trailer off the back end. This option comes with heavy duty latch pins for $200.
Spring Assist Gate $200
Prices depend on height and length of trailer. Higher sides are often combined with expanded metal (mesh), which is a separate price. Please ask for pricing for both taller sides and expanded metal sides.
We don’t have a paint booth and certainly don’t powdercoat. We use a basic rustoleum black enamel paint. If you want it primed first to avoid rust it costs $60 and will take an extra day at least to dry. If you want a color different from black, it will have to be primed first and we will have to buy a color that we don’t normally have in stock, so it will be $100.